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Add all ingredients to a stand mixer bowl. You can proof the yeast with the water and sugar first if you don't trust it, but it isn't otherwise necessary.
Mix 3 minutes; let rest 10 minutes; mix another 3-5 minutes.
Turn dough out onto a bench and knead with additional flour until the dough loses enough stickiness to hold together; Processed flours need much more additional flour vs local/stone ground flours.
Return to a bowl and cover with a lid or towel. Proof 2 hours.
Gently knock the air out of the dough and invert it; proof 1.5-2 more hours.
Gently roll dough into approx. 100g balls, pinch the seams to seal, and arrange apart on silpatted and/or cornmealed baking sheet.
Spray rolls with cooking spray, cover with second inverted baking sheet, and allow to proof an additional 60-90 minutes, until large but before they start to spread and flatten.
Towards the end of the final proof, preheat oven to 500F.
Bake 5 minutes on lowest rack, lower heat to 450F, and bake an additional 5-7 minutes til brown. Try not to open the oven too much.
Cool on wire rack 10-15 minutes before eating; cool completely before storing.